Pizza and Wine Make Marta a Real Good Time
There’s this new guy in town, and you definitely haven’t heard of him. His name is, um, Danny Meyer?
Just kidding. The newest in the Danny Meyer empire is relaxed, bright, and communal. That makes sense, given that the menu’s focus is the most relaxed, laid back, and shareable food there is – pizza. With Marta, Meyer’s giving his NoMad neighbor Mario Batali a little healthy (not literally) competizione, churning out Roman-style super thin-crust pizza, which they make in gorgeous wood-burning ovens, which also serve as the focal point of the open kitchen. Marta is basically the kid-sister to Meyer’s Mailino, and the approach to Roman Italian cuisine is given the same careful consideration.
The space is brightly lit, white, open, and sits in the entry to the newly facelifted Martha Washington Hotel. You’re a little bit in the lobby in Marta’s semi-open room; people hustling through and simple design details give the place a “Nonna’s Kitchen” feel. The dark wood cabinets, tables made from butcher blocks covered in craft paper, and simple serveware made us feel happily at home.
Marta is more than a pizza place. The menu is simple but thought through and includes easy-to-share starters and salads, like rabbit and olive meatballs and green risotto croquettes. There are also seafood entrees and other Italian favorites cooked right in those fantastic ovens.
That said, the pizza game is strong, and lives up to the hype that surrounds Danny Meyer entering the ‘za scene. There are more than ten variations of cracker-thin pies, made with homemade cheeses and perfectly cured meats. Our fave was the meaty Macellio – soppressata, sausage, and guanciale. The combination of three pork products somehow managed to remain light, thin, and delicious. If meat’s not your thing, the vegetable and cheese combinations are as gourmet as they are simple. We tried the special, which was a variation on margherita, made with homemade burrata. In a word: Unreal.
Marta takes the same laid-back approach to wine and spirits. The sommelier quickly came to our table to explain the all-Italian wine list, and suggested something slightly heavier which was also reasonably priced.
Sometimes you just want great Italian food without the fuss, and Marta might be your go-to for that. Here’s a place where you can wear your jeans and flannel, bring the kids, drink a little too much wine, and get a little bit loud. Just like at Nonna’s.